I guess he's been splitting up some of the time these days escaping to
his new mountain cabin to beat some of the crowds at the beaches. Doing
some fishin' on the lake, the trout have been biting, some hiking and
rockclimbing too. But he's definitely a familiar site in the water, still
ripping, commanding respect and getting the longest noserides. Usually
it's the south side, third peak down the line, connecting to the pier on
those south swell days, and he was even recently sited on the north side
hanging with the boys.
David has been nominated in two different divisions of the Huntington
Beach Walk of Fame -- Surfing Champions and Local Heroes -- but in my
eyes, he should be in Surf Pioneers and Surfing Culture, too.
Back in the day, in the 60s, he was one of the best noseriders around
and was considered by many to be the world's best. In the 70s he
influenced thesurf scene with his flamboyant style of airbrushed
surfboards with rainbows and fully sided psychedelic sprays. And in the
mid-70s I can remember walking down the Huntington Beach service road and
Dave pulling up in a white Jaguar with two Dalmatians and his 6-foot-2
Dyno fish, and going out and tearing it up. People would just stop to
watch and try to figure out what he was doing. That was back when single
fins were the norm and boards were way longer.
David has recently teamed up with another style master, Joel Tudor.
They've been doing some classic old school longboards together, bridging
the generation gap. Both were team riders of shaper Donald Takayama, and
are now on to their own thing, getting boards out worldwide.
Last year both hung out together in the Legend contest in Oz,
Australia. It was a tough one though as David had to surf his heat
straight off a 16-hour flight into the lineup at Noosahead in Brisbane.
The wave was a classic long right, which had three points like Malibu,
and he did get third to move on. Other legends there were Micky Dora, who
came out of hiding; Nat Young; Robert August; and "Wing Nut" Robert
Weaver, just to name a few. There were a few contests there and young