Smiley Galgini's prime rib and the quick and efficient attention of
our server Lori Rode, whose watchful eye pays attention to your empty
Gus' son, Nick, now has the Grille and has continued the
restaurant with the same bon ami that greets you as you open the door
on the bar and beyond to the dining room of comfortable vinyl booths,
which offer privacy and relaxation for the conversation of engineers
from nearby offices.
I selected -- what else? -- the prime rib sandwich ($9.45), an
open-face slice of nutrient-dense beef at least half-an-inch thick
and so tender on grilled cheese bread with wonderfully curly
matchstick fries, deep fried with a mildly spicy twist, which I could
nibble forever. It's served with soup -- this day an excellent thick
split pea with bits of ham -- or salad, which is fresh and given a
special touch with homemade dressing.
Though beef is the staple at the Grille, the cod ($9.95) my friend
ordered with a champagne sauce is very good. It is served with
zucchini, carrots and rice pilaf. The fish, Icelandic cod, has a
mild, delicate flavor and is naturally low in calories with moist,
tasty flakes. The mild champagne sauce provides a perfect cover and
does not overwhelm the fish.
Desserts are my downfall, and here I had baked apple pie ($3.75)
with two scoops of ice cream. Its contrast of ice cream and warm
apple slices makes a good dessert. Though the crust could have been
firmer and flakier, it sort of melded in the apple slices.
The Grille is rather like a sanctuary, with a low ceiling and tiny
fairy lights draped around small plants. It's the kind of place that
you get to know your server, who also gets to know your order. No
need for a menu here unless you want to be adventurous and choose
* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have
comments or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail