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Thankfulness is the best tradition

November 25, 2004

MICHELE MARR

Spicy tofu with lemon grass and fresh basil. A gratin of sweet

potatoes, sweet Italian sausage and Parmesan. Pumpkin-sweet potato

soup with bacon bits. Roast cabbage with grains, caramelized root

vegetables and vegetable coulis -- all this for only 845 calories per

serving.

Sound like your Thanksgiving spread? Mine neither. The San

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Francisco Chronicle and Reader's Digest suggested them. To each his

own.

According to http://www.howstuffworks.com, Thanksgiving's only

essential tradition is sharing a meal (it doesn't say what kind) with

family and friends while giving thanks for what we have.

I suspect today there are people all over the country putting that

notion to test -- insisting that the gravy have giblets and the

turkey be carved exactly as it always has been.

As holidays go, according to the website, Thanksgiving is as

simple as one gets, not "tied to any specific religion, and you can

pretty much celebrate it however you want."

For a lot of families I know and have known, "however you want" is

more like "however you can." Kind of like the families in the 2000

Thanksgiving classic, "What's Cooking?"

The movie looks in on four families as each awkwardly gathers

around its cuisine spiced with familial problems. Isabel Avila's son

invites her husband, with whom she is on rather bad terms, to dinner.

In the Nguyen household, the parents chafe against their children's

assimilation. The Williams, husband and wife, try to conceal their

domestic turbulence from a visiting in-law. The Seeligs, they are

stubbornly trying not to acknowledge the fact their adult daughter is

living with her lover.

If you haven't seen the movie, I won't spoil it for you by telling

you how it all ends. As for Thanksgiving not being tied to any

specific religion, it hasn't always been seen that way.

One of the enduring memories of my grammar school years is of my

entire class, sometime in the very early '60s, reenacting, complete

with Pilgrim and Indian costumes and real food, what I was taught was

our nation's first Thanksgiving.

The Indians among us wore braids and felt moccasins; they weren't

allowed to be barefoot at school. The Pilgrims wore black with white

collars and cuffs with silver cardboard buckles on their shoes. The

men also sported buckles on their belts and their black, wide-brimmed

hats. Women tucked their hair under white cotton bonnets.

Our mothers had baked bread to go with bowls of "maize" and winter

squash. Someone's father gifted us with a hearty lot of venison.

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