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Basilico's is Buono

January 06, 2005

John Volo

My wife and I took my parents and brother (all in town for the

holidays) to dinner at Basilico's Pasta e Vino. We signed the waiting

list posted outside and braved the cold for 20 minutes before being

seated inside the cozy (35-40 persons) dining room. We settled in

with a round of Moretti's (an Italian beer) and a basket of warm

bread before eyeballing the menu.

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The menu surprised me -- not a single veal entree and only one

chicken dish. There were, however, several sandwich options (for

dinner?) and plenty of pasta.

For appetizers, we ordered caprese salad ($7.95) and risotto cakes

($4.50). The caprese is a plate-long pattern of thickly sliced

mozzarella overlapping a full basil leaf, overlapping sliced roma

tomato, all lightly drizzled with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. The

risotto cakes (Italian rice in the shape of a mini bundt cake) are

coated with a balsamic vinaigrette sauce that creates a caramelized

texture outside. The inside remains soft and creamy. It was served on

a bed of spinach leaves and arugula. Both appetizers far exceeded my

expectations.

I was surprised once again: this time by the enormity of our

dinners (all served in huge bowls). I knew, even for a big eater like

myself, finishing my cavatelli pasta with Milanese ($10.95) would be

challenging. The cavatelli, a canoe-shaped pasta, was tossed in an

olive oil and garlic sauce. The Milanese (much like the beef cutlets

my Italian grandma made for Sunday dinner) is a thinly sliced steak,

breaded and deep-fried. I squirted on some juice from a lemon wedge,

took one bite and knew this was too good not to finish.

My dad and brother both enjoyed the seafood linguini ($15.95).

Shrimp, scallops (large), calamari (tentacles and all) and clams (in

an open shell) mix with linguini in what is advertised as a light

tomato sauce but actually resembles a spicy Fra Diavolo sauce.

There's an abundance of seafood and flavor in this culinary delight.

My mom (an admitted shrimpaholic) chose the linguini with shrimp

($12.95). On top of this huge mound of linguini (in an olive oil and

garlic sauce) I saw but a few shrimp. Like an archeologist digging

for ancient artifacts, I carefully forked through the linguini in

search of lost shrimp. Voila! I uncovered a plethora of hidden

shrimp. This slightly peppery dish should satisfy all shrimp lovers.

My wife selected Basilico's one and only chicken dish: the chicken

parmesan ($11.95). In my opinion, chicken parmesan is chicken

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