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Restaurant Review:

Authentic, plentiful Chinese cuisine

May 28, 2008|By John Reger

Community redevelopment always makes me shudder, especially in the suburbs. When a land owner decides to remodel places like Panda Palace, customers usually pay the price.

Except when Panda Palace was in Seal Beach, it was called Panda Panda and had a loyal following. That didn’t matter when the bulldozers came calling. The restaurant was plowed under so the “new” mall could be filled with such scintillating places like California Pizza Kitchen, because we don’t have enough of those already.

But the owners of the restaurant found a new home in Sunset Beach, a town that has exactly three chain establishments, none of them restaurants.

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It was a bit ironic that the restaurant relocated to Peter’s Landing. That plaza had done a bit of remodeling as well, failing to renew the lease of a couple of tenants because they wanted to upgrade their property.

This town has welcomed Panda Palace, and apparently the restaurant has not only picked up new diners, but some of the faithful from Seal Beach have crossed the bridge to visit a place they miss.

It is easy to see why.

This restaurant is not cheap, not by Chinese food standards anyway. Dishes range from $9.95 for a couple of pork selections to $17.95 for the grilled sea bass filet.

A friend of mine and I went there the other night, and I was running uncharacteristically late. When I walked in the door, Danielle was sitting at the bar sipping on a specialty cocktail.

Some of the concoctions they offer are grand melon-tini. It is Midori melon, and orange, cranberry and pineapple juice, topped with dark rum. The key lime pie, which consists of Absolut vanilla vodka, lime juice and a little pineapple juice with a sugar rimmed glass, is another favorite. The one I thought was the most intriguing was the green tea. That has green tea liqueur, vodka, lime juice, muddled cucumber and mint.

The restaurant has an elegant bar area. The whole restaurant is well decorated and it is easy to see why it took the owners more than a year to open.

The wait was worth it. This has easily turned into one of Sunset Beach’s best restaurants and the chef/owner, Fong Peng, has more than 40 years of experience cooking Chinese cuisine.

His expertise was evident in the very first dish we received. We ordered the pu pu tray. It is a wood platter with a little black pot in the middle that has fire inside warming the beef, which is very tender.

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