Katsuya has arrived in Laguna with a bang, and if you enjoyed the ironically titled Hush for its high-decibel ambience, you won't be disappointed with the restaurant that has taken its place. Designed by minimalist Phillip Starck, its hard surfaces bounce the frequencies to ever-higher levels as the evening wears on.
You enter this Cal-Japanese hot spot directly into the capacious bar area where everyone seems to be having a very high time sipping their specialty cocktails. From there you can proceed up the steps to the main dining room or onto the large glass-enclosed patio. The highlights of the décor include giant images of a geisha's facial features — one is an eyebrow, one is painted lips, etc. Tall tumulus stones flank the dining room and are painted with kanji calligraphic characters that spell katsuya, which means victory and is also the name of the executive chef Katsuya Uechi.